La Couturière Parisienne Costume and Fashion Site - The Sources



The Sources

This website is not just a craft or hobby site, but also a scientific publication in the fields of costume history and fashion sociology. Thus, I have taken the liberty to quote copyrighted sources as is the custom in scientific publications. Academic custom also requires that sources are listed - here you are. For a full sources list, please look at the volumes listed in "The Library" as well.

But - I thought - a mere list may not be enough, so I've decided to annotate the entries so that you may decide just how much trouble/money getting it from inter-library loan, antiquarian shops or eBay is worth.

The list is divided into two parts: Contemporary sources - that's anything contemporary to the clothing it's dealing with, e.g. 19th century fashion magazines talking about 19th century fashion - and non-contemporary sources, i.e. typically 20th/21st century books dealing with pre-20th century matters.


Contemporary sources

Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's pattern book 1589. Reprint: Carlton: Ruth Bean, 1999
Spanish/English. See "Library" for description

Allgemeine Muster-Zeitung. Album für weibliche Handarbeiten und Moden. Stuttgart, 1854.
German. A fashion magazine with handicraft (not sewing) patterns.

Amaranthes. Nutzbares, galantes und curieuses Frauenzimmer-Lexicon. Leipzig, 1715
German. One of the first encyclopedias ever written in a language other than Latin. Apart from famous women of legend and history, it deals with matters then considered typically female, such as clothing, needlework, household, cooking (incl. recipes), but also legal matters such as marriage and divorce laws. There were at least two more editions (both in the 1730s, I think) and a reprint in the 1970s or 80s. Much of the content can also be found in the later Krünitz Encyclopedia.

Amman, Jost. Im Frauwenzimmer wird vermeldt von allerley schönen Kleidungen und Trachten... Frankfurt 1586. Reprint: München 1880
Latin/German. A collection of b/w plates (there seem to be coloured editions as well) of contemporary women's costume from all over the world. Of course, the non-European plates cannot be trusted an inch. There are 20th century re-editions.

Bertuch, F.J. and G.M. Kraus. Journal des Luxus und der Moden. Leipzig, 1786-1795, reprint Leipzig 1967.
German. The first German-language fashion and lifestyle magazine. Each volume had at least one coloured print; AFAIK the reprints contain only part of both text and prints.

Beyers Modenblatt, Verlag Otto Beyer, Leipzig/Berlin. 9/1933, 4/1934, 25/1934
German. A fashion magazine that seems to have had a life span limited to the 1920s and 30s.

Bräuning-Oktavio, Hermann (Ed.). Briefe der Herzogin Elisabeth Charlotte von Orléans, gen. Liselotte. Altenburg. (no year, estimated ~1915)
German. A selection of letters by Liselotte von der Pfalz, the sister-in-law of Louis XIV.

Braunschweiger Moden-Courier. 1. and 3. quarter 1838.
German. Fashion magazine with coloured plates.

Cervantes y Saavedra, Miguel de. Don Quixote. Zürich: Diogenes 1987. Originally published 1605+1615.
The famous book that everyone knows but hardly anyone has ever read. Well, I have. There are only a few references to costume but it does give a good and first-hand impression of Spain in the early 17th century.

Cisternes-Courtiras, Gabriela Anna. Marquise von Pompadour: Memoiren der Gräfin Olympia von Villebelle. Berlin: A. Weichert, no year.
Memoirs of a countess. The edition I have is in German; there may be others. There are only a few references to costume but it does give a good impression of French mid-18th century court life. However, it may be phoney, i.e. written by a later (19th century) author. My personal jury is still out.

Casanova, Giacomo. Erinnerungen.
The German translation (probably early 20th century) I've used is published under the above URL. There's a facsimile of the French original somewere on the web, too.

the Cotton-Textile Institute, Inc. New Types of Cotton Fabrics for Autumn. New York, 1929
English. A collection of fabric samples with descriptions. It was a gift from Tara Maginnis of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks.

La Couturière Parisienne / Die Kleidermacherin,
published by Moniteur Universel des Modes, Paris/Leipzig, from 1876. Single issues 1878-1880 & yearly volume 1901
French/German. A two-language fashion magazine with coloured plates (lost in my editions) and pattern diagrams. You may have noticed that it has lent its name to my website.

The Delineator, The Butterick Publishing Co, New York et al. 7/1899, 2/1902
English. An American fashion magazine, apparently without patterns.

Deutsche Moden Zeitung, Verlag Deutsche Moden Zeitung, Leipzig, published from 1886.
German. The magazine seems to have been one of the leading journals in Germany during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Diderot, d'Alembert et al. Recueil des Planches sur les Sciences, les Arts Liberaux, et les Arts Mechaniques: 17??-1771
French. The most important encyclopedia of the 18th century, which counted Mme Pompadour among its subscribers. It deals with arts and trades, including tailoring, button making, weaving, dyeing, embroidery and other costume-related trades. There are a number of text volumes and at least as many plate volumes that depict people at work, the tools employed and - in the case of tailoring - patterns. I have published some of the plates here and here.

Dies Blatt gehört der Hausfrau, Verlag von Friedrich Schirmer, Berlin. Vol. IX 1894/95, XI 1896/97, 2/1906
German. A fashion magazine that seems to have come with pattern sheets. As usual, the whole-year volumes don't have them.

Dillmont, Thérése. Encyclopädie der weiblichen Handarbeiten. Mulhouse: Verlag von Th. de Dillmont, 1908. Facsimile reprint by Weltbild Verlag, 1996
German. The original edition was in French; there may have been other language editons supported/edited by the thread company DMC. Apart from the usual "women's crafts" suspects (embroidery, tatting, crochet, knitting etc) , it also gives instructions for almost forgotten techniques such as bobbin and needle lace (rare!), knotting, netting and metallic thread embroidery.

Dulserker, Johann Daniel, Eigentliche Vorstellung der heutigen Straßburgischen Mode und Kleydertrachten. Straßburg (?), 1731. Reprint.
French/German. A collection of plates depicting the clothing worn by the citizens of Strasbourg at the time.

F. A. Seiler (co.). Mass-Buch für das Jahr 1898: Dem deutschen Schneider-Gewerbe zum Jahreswechsel gewidmet.
German. A little booklet for men's tailors containing some hints about contemporary male fashion and whatever was of interest to the trade.

La Famille, Paris. May-Sept 1907
French. A fashion magazine.

Fielding, Henry. Tom Jones. Ware: Wordsworth, 1992. Originally published 1749.
English. One of the most famous 18th century English books. Contains few references to costume but gives a good impression of mid-18th century life in England and the cost of living.

Franks, Catherine. The Pictorial Guide to Modern Home Dressmaking. Odhams Press Ltd, London, estimated late 30s
English. Instructions and pattern diagrams.

Franziskanerin von Nonnenwerth (Hrsg.). Praktische Zuschneidemethode mit Anleitung zur Anfertigung sämmtlicher Wäscheartikel. Regensburg: J. Habbel, o.J. (c. 1900)
German. Patterns and instructions for making underwear, table and bed linen and the like.

Gelatsch, Adolf, and Hans Werner. Fachkunde des Kleidermachergewerbes. Wien: Alfred Hölder, 1915
German. Current trends and tools for the men's tailor. Some pictures, no patterns.

de Garsault, François Alexandre Pierre. L'art de la lingere. Neuchâtel 1780 (Nach- oder Raubdruck; original 1769)
French. Instructions and patterns for making underwear, caps and whatever else was made of white linen. Garsault's plates were partially copied by Diderot (see above). There are more costume-related volumes than the three I have, e.g. on wig making.

de Garsault, François Alexandre Pierre. L'art du tailleur. Neuchâtel 1780 (original 1769)
French. Instructions and patterns for making men's and women's clothes.

de Garsault, François Alexandre Pierre. Der Schuster. Leipzig 1769. Reprint: Leipzig 1990
German, originally French. Instructions and patterns for making shoes.

Godey's Lady's Book. Single issues 1884, 1885
English. One of the most important North American fashion magazines of the mid-to-late 19th century.

Gollmann, Wilhelm. Toilette-Lexikon für die elegante Welt. Leipzig: Verl. von Franz Wagner, 1860
German. A little encyclopedia that deals solely with cosmetics and hygiene.

Graham's Magazine, George R. Graham & Co, Philadelphia. Vol XXXII 1848, Vol. XXXVI 1850
English. Another North American magazine.

Harper's Bazar, Harper & Brothers, New York, published since 1867. 2/1890, 6/1890
English. One of the most important North American fashion magazines of the late 19th and way into the 20th century.

Die Hausschneiderei,Verlag von W. Vobach & Co., Berlin, 1914-1916
German. A book of instructions and pattern diagrams.

Hochfelden, Brigitta, and Marie Niedner. Das Buch der Wäsche. Ein Leitfaden zur zeit- und sachgemäßen Herstellung... Leipzig: Verlag der Deutschen Moden-Zeitung, o.J.
German. Instructions and patterns for undergarments. Not dated; Art Nouveau decoration suggests ~1900

Illustrierte Wäsche- und Handarbeitszeitung, Verlag von W. Vobach & Co., Leipzig, 1934-1939
German. A fashion magazine with focus on under, morning and night wear, with pattern sheets.

Keim, Emma. Die praktische Hausfrau. Stuttgarter Verlags- und Reisebuchhandlung Carl Keim, estimated early 1920s
German. A book of instructions and pattern diagrams.

Klemm, Heinrich. Schule der Damenschneiderei zum gründlichen Unterrichte sowie als Leitfaden für Lehr-Institute. Dresden: Klemm's, 1885
German. Instructions on taking measurements and drawing patterns, pattern diagrammes for many kinds of garments.

Journal des Dames et des Demoiselles, Bruylant-Christophe et Comp., Bruxelles. Vol. 1852
French. A Belgian fashion magazine with coloured plates.

Lechner, Hedwig, and Gunda Beeg. Die Anfertigung der Damen-Garderobe. Berlin: Lipperheide, 1886

Merz, Johann Georg. Kleidungs-Arten in der Stadt Augspurg. Augsburg, c. 1730 (private reprint, 1924)
French/German. A book of plates depicting regional costume, similat to the Strasbourg book above.

La Mode Illustrée, Mme Raymond, Paris, published since 1859. 12/1896, 1/1915, 1/1917, 8/1917, 1/1919, 8/1920, 12/1920
French. One of the more important and long-lived French fashion magazines. No patterns.

La Mode Pratique, Hachette et Cie, Paris, published since 1892. 7/1912, 8/1912, 12/1912
French. A fashion magazine.

Die Modenwelt, publisher unknown, published since 1864. Pattern supplements 1887-96
German. According to the anniversary book listed below under "N.A.", this publicaton appeared in a lot of different languages, but with the same plates in each, all across Europe. It seems to have been one of the most influential magazines in Germany (and maybe the other countries it appeared in) during the late 19th century. With pattern sheets.

Moden-Zeitung fürs deutsche Haus, Verlag von W. Vobach & Co., Berlin, 1909-1912
German. A fashion magazine with pattern sheets.

Der moderne Kleidermacher, Expedition der Europäischen Modenzeitung, Dresden 1875.
German. First year of the bi-monthly magazine for men's tailors containing fashion plates and patterns.

Le Moniteur de la Mode, published by Gubaud, Paris. 2/1899, 6/1899, fashion plate
French. An influential French magazine with coloured plates.

Peterson's Magazine, Peterson & Bros., Philadelphia, published since 1809. Vols. 1858, 1859, 1869, 1874, 1877, 1883, single issues 1884, 1885
English. Another influential American magazine of the late 19th century. With coloured plates.

Le Petit Echo de la Mode, Paris, published since 1878. 39/1923, 45/1924, 52/1924, 3/1926, 45/1929, 28/1930
French. A fashion magazine.

Richardson, Samuel. Pamela. London: Penguin, 1985. Originally published in 1740.
English. One of the most famous 18th century novels. Contains some references to costume and how they relate to social strata. Gives a very good impression of social levels and how they interacted.

Ruckert, Wilh. (Frau). Jede Frau ihre eigene Schneiderin! Berlin: Edmund Herrmann, ca. 1900.
German. A book of instructions and pattern diagrams.

Le Salon de la Mode, Paris, published since 1875. 4/1877, 6/1877
French. A fashion magazine.

Santa Clara, Abraham a. Neu-eröffnete Welt-Galleria. 1703. Reprint (details unknown)
German. A book of plates depicting various costumes worn in the "Holy Roman Empire", from the emperor to peasants. Some are published here.

Steimann, Antonie. Ich kann schneidern - Illustriertes Hausbuch der praktischen Schneiderei, Ullstein & Co., Berlin/Wien, 1908
German. A book of instructions and pattern diagrams.

Standard Mail Order Co. Mail Order Catalogue Summer 1914, New York - thanks to Tara Maginnis
English. A booklet containing the newest styles with prices.

Stoddard, John L. John L. Stoddard's Lectures, (Volume three) Geo. L. Shuman & Co., Chicago & Boston, 1925
English. A travel account with stories and pictures from East Asia.

Swift, Jonathan. Des Herrn Dr. Jonathan Swifts wo nicht verbesserliche so doch wohlgemeynte Anweisungen für alle Arten unerfahrner Dienstboten... Frankfurt a. M.: Insel Verlag: 1968
German. Reprint of an 18th century translation of Directions to Servants (1731)

Sydow, Johanna von. Mode- und Toiletten-Brevier. Leipzig: Otto Spamer, ca. 1880.
German. A little book about the history of various fashion items and how to employ them "nowadays" (i.e. 1880s). Astonishingly well researched for the day and age.

Trommsdorff, Johann Bartholomäus. Kallopistria, oder die Kunst der Toilette für die elegante Welt. Erfurt, 1805. Reprint: Leipzig 1981. Online at Google Books.
German. A book of recipes for various cosmetics published by a chemist stuck between the "old ways" (ancien régime) and the new (empire) and trying to please both.

Vobachs Frauen- und Moden-Zeitung, Verlag von W. Vobach & Co, Berlin. 1921, 1923
German. Vobach was the leading German publisher of fashion magazines during the 1920s and 30s. It's interesting to see how the prices imprinted on the magazines were overlaid with much higher prices due to the abnormally high inflation of the 20s. With patterns sheets.

Vobachs Familien-Hilfe, Verlag W. Vobach & Co., Leipzig. 1929-39
German. This magazine seems to have embraced the National Socialist ideology more readily than other magazines even of the same (Vobach) family, which makes it an interesting (albeit somewhat horrible) read even for the non-costumer. With pattern sheets.

Weigel, Hans. Habitus praecipuorum populorum, tam virorum quam foeminarium Singulari arte depicti. 1577. Reprint Darmstadt: Hoppenstedt, 1955
Latin/German. A book of plates similar to those of Amman above, but including men. Again, the farther you get from Weigel's base (Nürnberg), the less trustworthy the plates are.

Zimmermann, P. Die junge Haushälterinn, ein Buch für Mütter und Töchter.
Drittes Bändchen. Basel, 1792 (vol. 3 of the 2nd or 3rd edition)
Erstes und zweites Bändchen. Luzern: Anich, 1807. (full 5th edition)
German. Originally a three-volume book written like a drama that gives basic instructions on middle-class household management, from laundry via dyeing cost to the contents of a dowry. Very few instances of this highly interesting book have survived: Using OPAC searches, I have only found one instance each of the 1807 two-volume 5th edition in the libraries of the Regensburg and Basel universities (and one at an antiquarian book shop, now in my possession) and none of the four earlier editions. If you know where to find any volume of an earlier edition at a reasonable price, please let me know - or buy it and let me have a xerox of the more interesting passages, please!

N.A. Einfache Zuschneidemethode für Damen- und Kinderkleider. Regensburg: J. Habbel, o.J. (ca. 1905)
German. A book of instructions and patterns.

N.A. Unknown title. Subject: Hairdos.
This is a rather strange listing, but that's all I've got. The cover and introductory pages as well as the last few pages have somehow been destroyed very early in the life of the book, and the rest painstakingly restored and re-bound. The effort put into restoration implies that it was an important book, i.e a classic or must-have. Anyway, any hint at the author, title, publisher etc. is lost. The illustrations are in the style of around 1900. I have used them in the pages on 17th, 18th and 19th century hairdos. If you recognize the plates and know which book they are from, please let me know.

N.A. Zum fünfundzwanzigjährigen Bestehen der "Modenwelt", 1865-1890. Berlin, 1890.
German. The fashion magazine "Die Modenwelt" has been listed above. This book, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the journal, proves, by depicting the title pages of editions in various languages, that fashon was indeed international during the late 19th century.


Non-contemporary Sources

(Includes books that are not about fashion. I have removed those that are listed in the library pages)

Donations from Saskia, Nicole, Valerie, Anna and other kind persons

Baccheschi, Edi. L'opera completa del Bronzino. Milano: Rizzoli, 1973
Italian. Paintings by Bronzino.

Bayerisches Nationalmusem. Fächer: Kunst und Mode auf fünf Jahrhunderten. München: Hirmer, 1987

Blum, Stella. Eighteenth Century French Fashion Plates in Full Color. New York: Dover 1982
English. Late 18th century (1770s or later) fashion plates.

Blume, Jacob. Von Donnerbalken und innerer Einkehr. Göttingen: Werkstatt, 2002
German, about the history of defecation. Ich finde das Buch passend zu seinem Thema: Scheiße. Lockerer Schreibstil, gut, aber das scheint v.a. einer Mischung aus in plattem Humor aufgelöster Hemmung und der Lust am Tabubruch geschuldet zu sein. Es mangelt an Quellenangaben für steile Behauptungen und viele zitierte Quellen sind nicht zeitgenössisch.

Boehn, Max von. Die Mode : Menschen und Moden im XVI. Jahrhundert. München: Bruckmann, 1925
Boehn, Max von. Die Mode : Menschen und Moden im XVII. Jahrhundert. München: Bruckmann, 1913
Boehn, Max von. Die Mode : Menschen und Moden im XVIII. Jahrhundert. München: Bruckmann, 1909
German. Boehn wrote a multi-volume work on fashion from medieval times to the late 19th century, taking care to explain the socio-political backround of each era. He made several blunders here and there but his books are still widely read. AFAIK the first edition was 1909. There's even a modern (1980s or so) re-publication.

Börsch-Supan. Der Maler Antoine Pesne. Friedberg: Podzum-Pallas, 1986
German. An art book with a collection of Pesne's paintings. (18th century)

Brätschmann, Oskar & Pascal Griener. Hans Holbein. Köln: DuMont, 1997
German. An art book on Holbein's paintings.

A huge art website.

Fischel, Oskar. Chronisten der Mode. Mensch und Kleid in Bildern aus drei Jahrtausenden. Potsdam: Müller&Co., 1923
German. Fischel seems to have been an acquaintance of Boehn (see above). Contains some well-made repros of contemporary fashon plates.

Garb, Tamar. Frauen des Impressionismus. Suttgart/Zürich: Belser, 1987
German. A collection of paintings by women impressionists.

Hottenroth, Friedrich. Deutsche Volkstrachten vom XVI. bis zum XIX. Jahrhundert. Frankfurt/M: Verlag von Heinrich Keller, 1923
German. Texts and plates depicting folk costume. Reproduced here, here and here.

Hutter, Ernestine. Adrett geschnürt: Schnür- und Steppmieder vom Rokoko bis zur Gegenwart aus der Sammlung des Carolino Augusteums.
Salzburg: Carolino Augusteum, 1999
German. An exhibition catalogue about 18th century stays and their folk costume progeny.

Junker, Almut, und Eva Stille. Dessous : Zur Geschichte der Unterwäsche 1700-1960. Frankfurt: Historisches Museum, 1991
German. An exhibition catalogue that deals with underwear in more depth and with more scientific reliablility than anything else I've seen so far.

Koch, Johannes Hugo. Mit Model, Krapp und Indigo : Vom alten Handdruck auf Kattun und Leinwand. Hamburg: Christians, 1984
German. About the history of fabric print, containing some very interesting thoughts on late 17th/18th century chintz.

Köhler, Bruno. Allgemeine Trachtenkunde (2 Bde.). Leipzig: Reclam,o.J.
German. Estimated publication 1900-1910. Quite thourough work on costume with chapters on religious costumes with b/w drawings.

Köhler, Carl. ed. by Emma von Sichart. Praktische Kostümkunde in 600 Bildern und Schnitten. München: Bruckmann, 1926
German. From ancient Egypt to the 19th century. Contains pattern diagrammes. Many of the diagrammes and some of the text are highly suspicious, if not outright wrong. Us with extreme care! An English translation and details are listed in the library section.

Köhler, Carl. Die Trachten der Völker in Bild und Schnitt. Erster Theil: Die Völker des Alterthums. Dresden: Klemm & Schmidt, 1871.
German. Original edition of the above.

Leloir, Maurice. Dictionnaire du Costume et de des accessoires, des armes at des étoffes des origines à nos jours. Paris: Gründ, 1951.
French. A dictionary full of well-researched definitions and pictures. Apparently some editions also contain patterns and are, therefore, very much sought after. However, I wouldn't trust Leloir's patterns more than I would trust Köhler, i.e. not if I can help it. As far as the textual content is concerned, however, the man seems to have known his business quite well.

Lenz, Christian. Die Neue Pinakothek München, München: Ch. Beck, 1989
German. Art book with 19th-20th century of paintings in the museum.

Leonard, Jonathan N., Gainsborough und seine Zeit, Amsterdam: Time-Life, 1972
German. Art book.

Mallemont, A. Album historischer Frisuren. Berlin: Verlag d. dt. allgemeinen Friseur-Zeitung, o.J.
German. There is also a French edition (original). IIRC it was published very early in the 20th century. Instructions on making historical hairdos.

Marx, Harald. Die Gemälde des Louis de Silvestre. Dresden: Staatl. Kunstsammlungen, 1975
German. Art book.

Michel, Marianne Roland. Watteau. München: Prestel, 1984
German. Art book.

Münchner Stadtmuseum. Hüte :Von Kopf bis Hut. Kopfbedeckungen aus der Sammlung des Modemuseums im Münchner Stadtmuseum vom 18. Jahrhundert bis 2000. München: Edition Minerva, 2000
German. Catalogue of an exhibition about hats 18th century until 2000.

Piton, Camille. Le costume civil en France du XIIIe au XIXe siècle. Paris: Flammarion, 1926
French. History of costume in France from the 13th to the 19th century. Very good b/w illustrations and good text.

Postcards from the Museum of Costume, Bath

Postcards from the National Portrait Gallery, London

O'Keeffe, Linda. Schuhe. Köln: Könemann, 1997
German. Exists also in Eglish (original). Mainly pictures of shoes through the ages sorted by type of shoe.

Penny, Nicholas (ed). Reynolds. London: Royal Academy of Arts, 1986
English. Art book.

Salmon, Xavier (ed.) Madame de Pompadour: L'Art et l'Amour. München: Hypo-Kulturstiftung, 2002
German. Exhibition catalogue: paintings of Mme Pompadour, objects from her possession. English and French editions should exist since this exhibition was also shown in Versailles and London.

Schönberger, Angela et al. Die Sammlung Kamer/Ruf. Mode im Kunstgewerbemuseum. Berlin: Kulturstiftung der Länder, 2005
German. Catalogue of an exhibition in Berlin of the Kamer/Ruf collection which has meanwhile been acquired by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.

Stadt Kornwestheim (ed.), Auf Schritt und Tritt... Schuhe. Kornwestheim, 1999
German. Exhibition catalogue on shoes through the ages.

Steingräber, Erich. Die Alte Pinakothek München, München: Ch. Beck, 1985
German. Art book on medieval to 18th century paintings in the museum. Museum of Art

The Wallace Collection, London: Postcards of paintings in the collection

Vigarello, Georges. Wasser und Seife, Puder und Parfüm: Geschichte der Körperhygiene seit dem Mittelalter. Frankfurt/M., 1992

The Vigée Lebrun Gallery

Weber, Michel. Photographs of 18th century fans taken for ebay auctions. With kind permission.

Wendel, Friedrich. Die Mode in der Karikatur. Dresden: Paul Aretz, 1928
German. About fashion as seen by contemporary caricaturists. The pictures are interesting, albeit awfully small, while the text is sometimes blatantly wrong.

Wheelock, Arthur K. jr. Vermeer. Köln: DuMont, 1992
German. Art book.

N.N. Costumes des tsars de Pierre le Grand à Nicholas II : Collection du Musée de l'Ermitage Saint-Pétersbourg. Moscow, 1999
Russian/French. 18th to early 20th century clothing from the possession of the Russian imperial family.

N.N. Meyers Enzyklopädisches Lexikon in 25 Bänden. Mannheim u.a: Bibliographisches Institut, 1971
German. Encyclopedia.

Wednesday, 24-Apr-2013 21:46:56 CEST



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