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CROSS-ERA

Dressing for the Occasion

What is considerd appropriate for each occasion differs slightly from culture to culture. These directions are from a German book, 1908. ("Ich kann schneidern", see sources page.)

Occasion Dress Hat Gloves Shoes Jewellery Other

1. routine outings (morning) ankle-length tailor suit with shirt-blouse simple hat matching linen, cotton, chamois or glacé gloves black or brown laced or buttoned boots unobtrusive brooche, belt clasp, cufflinks, in case of short sleeves link bracelet white collar and jabot, ribbon or leather belt, fur or feather boa, simple parasol or umbrella

2. afternoon walks, visits, déjeuners simple

as above, only more elegant blouse decorated hat linen, cotton or glacé gloves as above as above fur or feather boa, leather bag, leather belt, parasol or umbrella

elegant

jacket suit with long skirt and elegant silk blouse or trimmed dress; fur jacket in winter decorated hat with elegant veil glacé gloves in matching fair colours; in winter dogskin or kangaroo leather gloves high black chevreaux boots with patent leather trim, in summer fair coloured chevreaux or patent leather shoes a bit of coloured jewelry, also diamond brooch, bracelets, châtelaine as above, possibly silk pompadour, silver or gold metal bag, elegant parasol or umbrella

3. openings, anniversaries, morning receptions, gratulation visits, civil marriage, first visit simple

suit with long skirt or silk dress decorated hat with veil fair glacé gloves see 2./simple gold brooch, bracelet fur or feather boa

elegant

elegant suit with long skirt, wool or silk dress with train, elegant coat or jacket large decorated hat, preferably with feathers fair glacé gloves see 2./elegant; while or fair grey with white dresses coloured or diamonds, but not too much elegant fur or feather boa and parsol or umbrella, bead or metal pompadour or bag

Occasion Dress Hat Gloves Shoes Jewellery Other

4. church simple

plain, simple suit of medium or dark colour simple decorated hat glacé gloves black or brown simple brooch, possibly bracelet fur or feather boa, leather bag or dark silk pompadour, good parasol or umbrella

elegant

dark, simple silk toilette with elegant black coat simple decorated hat with veil matching glacé or suede* gloves see 2. as above as above

5. ordinary theatre performance, elite concert loge:
high-necked evening dress
pit & circles:
elegant visiting or evening dress, evening coat
gallery:
silk blouse and fair skirt evening hat, modern hairdo with ornaments matching, fair suede gloves high patent leather boots or shoes with open stockings, black, beige or white not too much chiffon or lace shawl or fur stole, fan, pompadour, single flowers for breast, headscarf

6. theâre paré and gala performance loge & pit:
low-necked soirée toilette (velvet, silk, tulle, wool), theatre or evening coat large decorative evening hairdo with flower, bow or heron arrangement
older ladies: lace bonnet with feathers long white or fair gloves elegant soirée shoes in black, white, bronze, solver or gold, possibly fair grey or beige, with elegant silk stockings gorgeous display allowed, medals real lace, fan, artificial flowers, elegant pompadour, fur or feather stole or lace shawl or theatre bonnet

7. concert medium coloured street or visiting dress, possibly with train and evening blouse loge:
see 5.
pit:
soirée hairdo fair, white or black suede black chevreaux small fan, pompadour, headscarf, boa

Occasion Dress Hat Gloves Shoes Jewellery Other

9. church concert dark silk, lace or visiting toilette, long, elegant, dark coat see 3. dark, black suede patent leather or chevreaux no diamonds. pearls, jet, amethysts, dull and few gold fur or feather boa, tortoise-shell or feather fan, dark pompadour

10. grand diners, balls, marriages low-necked party dress with flower trim, fair evening coat flowers or feathers, diadems with or without flowers, large decorative hairdo fair or white see 6., very elegant very rich (necklaces, bracelets, pendant, diadem), medals real lace, headscarf or bonnet, lace shawl, sortie de bal or fur collar (also feather stole), elegant lace fan with spangles, lace handkerchief, flowers, very elegant underclothes

11. small parties high-necked evening dress, evening coat fresh flowers;
older ladies: lece coiffure white or fair, matching the dress see 6., but no silver or gold not too much, antique or coloured fan, headscarf, pompadour, boa

14. visit of condolence black or dark dress or suit simple dark hat dark or black suede black lacing or buttoned boots or shoes only the most essential simple parasol, dark boa, leather bag or dark pompadour

15. application visit dark, correct street suit, see 2., coat, closed jacket see 2. see 2., medium colour see 2. only the most essential simple parasol, boa, leather bag or pompadour

16. office dress see 1., or simple, ankle-length dress see 1. see 1. see 1. see 1. see 1.

17. sport very correct, exactly as prescribed (see chapter about sport dress) as prescribed as prescribed as prescribed only the most essential everything fashionable is to be avoided

Occasion Dress Hat Gloves Shoes Jewellery Other

18. travel see 1., with travel coat cap or English hat with veil linen, cotton, wash-leather or dark glacé brown or black only the most essential parasol/umbrella, plaid, handbag

19. receiving a visit at home simple

skirt and blouse (no apron) or simple house dress ordinary hairdo none low shoes small, delicate (souvenirs etc)

elegant

teagown or elegant reformed or empire dress with train for older ladies possible lace gloves see 6. exotic, antique or modern Art Nouveau jewelry lace shawl, pompadour

20. race toilette fair weather

very elegant summer dress with train of silk, organdy or lace, long elegant silk or wool coat large, elegant feather hat with veil matching, fair glacé or suede shoes with open silk stockings, preferably in the colour of the dress peras and some diamonds elegant fur or feather boa, lorgnette or small binoculars, elegant bag or pompadour, fresh flowers, elegant parasol

bad weather

see 3., with long coat see 3. see 3. see above see above see above

21. casino, dinners in elegant restaurants low-necked toilette or like 20. see 20., without veil see 20. see 20. see 20., with elegant jupons, minus parasol and binoculars,

*) I'm not sure "suede" is the correct translation. The original says "Schweden", which translates as Swedes, so I surmised it meant suede. The term "Schweden" is not used in modern German.

More "dress ethics" or "dress codes", for men in 1908, 1909 ans 1910 can be found at the Costumer's Manifesto.

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Occasion	Dress	Hat	Gloves	Shoes	Jewellery	Other
1. routine outings (morning)	ankle-length tailor suit with shirt-blouse	simple hat	matching linen, cotton, chamois or glacé gloves	black or brown laced or buttoned boots	unobtrusive brooche, belt clasp, cufflinks, in case of short sleeves link bracelet	white collar and jabot, ribbon or leather belt, fur or feather boa, simple parasol or umbrella
2. afternoon walks, visits, déjeuners	simple
	as above, only more elegant blouse	decorated hat	linen, cotton or glacé gloves	as above	as above	fur or feather boa, leather bag, leather belt, parasol or umbrella
	elegant
	jacket suit with long skirt and elegant silk blouse or trimmed dress; fur jacket in winter	decorated hat with elegant veil	glacé gloves in matching fair colours; in winter dogskin or kangaroo leather gloves	high black chevreaux boots with patent leather trim, in summer fair coloured chevreaux or patent leather shoes	a bit of coloured jewelry, also diamond brooch, bracelets, châtelaine	as above, possibly silk pompadour, silver or gold metal bag, elegant parasol or umbrella
3. openings, anniversaries, morning receptions, gratulation visits, civil marriage, first visit	simple
	suit with long skirt or silk dress	decorated hat with veil	fair glacé gloves	see 2./simple	gold brooch, bracelet	fur or feather boa
	elegant
	elegant suit with long skirt, wool or silk dress with train, elegant coat or jacket	large decorated hat, preferably with feathers	fair glacé gloves	see 2./elegant; while or fair grey with white dresses	coloured or diamonds, but not too much	elegant fur or feather boa and parsol or umbrella, bead or metal pompadour or bag
Occasion	Dress	Hat	Gloves	Shoes	Jewellery	Other
4. church	simple
	plain, simple suit of medium or dark colour	simple decorated hat	glacé gloves	black or brown	simple brooch, possibly bracelet	fur or feather boa, leather bag or dark silk pompadour, good parasol or umbrella
	elegant
	dark, simple silk toilette with elegant black coat	simple decorated hat with veil	matching glacé or suede* gloves	see 2.	as above	as above
5. ordinary theatre performance, elite concert	loge: high-necked evening dress pit & circles: elegant visiting or evening dress, evening coat gallery: silk blouse and fair skirt	evening hat, modern hairdo with ornaments	matching, fair suede gloves	high patent leather boots or shoes with open stockings, black, beige or white	not too much	chiffon or lace shawl or fur stole, fan, pompadour, single flowers for breast, headscarf
6. theâre paré and gala performance	loge & pit: low-necked soirée toilette (velvet, silk, tulle, wool), theatre or evening coat	large decorative evening hairdo with flower, bow or heron arrangement older ladies: lace bonnet with feathers	long white or fair gloves	elegant soirée shoes in black, white, bronze, solver or gold, possibly fair grey or beige, with elegant silk stockings	gorgeous display allowed, medals	real lace, fan, artificial flowers, elegant pompadour, fur or feather stole or lace shawl or theatre bonnet
7. concert	medium coloured street or visiting dress, possibly with train and evening blouse	loge: see 5. pit: soirée hairdo	fair, white or black suede	black chevreaux		small fan, pompadour, headscarf, boa
Occasion	Dress	Hat	Gloves	Shoes	Jewellery	Other
9. church concert	dark silk, lace or visiting toilette, long, elegant, dark coat	see 3.	dark, black suede	patent leather or chevreaux	no diamonds. pearls, jet, amethysts, dull and few gold	fur or feather boa, tortoise-shell or feather fan, dark pompadour
10. grand diners, balls, marriages	low-necked party dress with flower trim, fair evening coat	flowers or feathers, diadems with or without flowers, large decorative hairdo	fair or white	see 6., very elegant	very rich (necklaces, bracelets, pendant, diadem), medals	real lace, headscarf or bonnet, lace shawl, sortie de bal or fur collar (also feather stole), elegant lace fan with spangles, lace handkerchief, flowers, very elegant underclothes
11. small parties	high-necked evening dress, evening coat	fresh flowers; older ladies: lece coiffure	white or fair, matching the dress	see 6., but no silver or gold	not too much, antique or coloured	fan, headscarf, pompadour, boa
14. visit of condolence	black or dark dress or suit	simple dark hat	dark or black suede	black lacing or buttoned boots or shoes	only the most essential	simple parasol, dark boa, leather bag or dark pompadour
15. application visit	dark, correct street suit, see 2., coat, closed jacket	see 2.	see 2., medium colour	see 2.	only the most essential	simple parasol, boa, leather bag or pompadour
16. office dress	see 1., or simple, ankle-length dress	see 1.	see 1.	see 1.	see 1.	see 1.
17. sport	very correct, exactly as prescribed (see chapter about sport dress)	as prescribed	as prescribed	as prescribed	only the most essential	everything fashionable is to be avoided
Occasion	Dress	Hat	Gloves	Shoes	Jewellery	Other
18. travel	see 1., with travel coat	cap or English hat with veil	linen, cotton, wash-leather or dark glacé	brown or black	only the most essential	parasol/umbrella, plaid, handbag
19. receiving a visit at home	simple
	skirt and blouse (no apron) or simple house dress	ordinary hairdo	none	low shoes	small, delicate (souvenirs etc)
	elegant
	teagown or elegant reformed or empire dress with train		for older ladies possible lace gloves	see 6.	exotic, antique or modern Art Nouveau jewelry	lace shawl, pompadour
20. race toilette	fair weather
	very elegant summer dress with train of silk, organdy or lace, long elegant silk or wool coat	large, elegant feather hat with veil	matching, fair glacé or suede	shoes with open silk stockings, preferably in the colour of the dress	peras and some diamonds	elegant fur or feather boa, lorgnette or small binoculars, elegant bag or pompadour, fresh flowers, elegant parasol
	bad weather
	see 3., with long coat	see 3.	see 3.	see above	see above	see above
21. casino, dinners in elegant restaurants	low-necked toilette or like 20.	see 20., without veil	see 20.	see 20.		see 20., with elegant jupons, minus parasol and binoculars,